Risk & Reward
The ongoing collaborative relationship between ASICS and Kiko Kostadinov is one of the few examples of a sneaker company working with a fashion designer on real performance silhouettes instead of retro shoes that were considered state of the art performance footwear a few decades ago. It is not about tapping the cultural relevance of some “personality” and capitalizing on their “authenticity”, but rather about exploring the possibilities of modern sneaker design alongside Kostadinov’s design ethos. “I want to do things that help me live in the city. [...] I’m not saying you need to have a hundred pockets as that’s a fictional function, but it needs to be really comfortable and interesting” he once stated about how he approaches his work. In a comparatively bold move by ASICS, the young designer was hired right after he graduated from Central Saint Martin to execute the very first ASICS designer collaboration at the time. He delivered sneaker designs in a deliberately sophisticated fashion context with a great sense for colorways.
Kostadinov was allowed to create unique new silhouettes - granted, first by combining components from different contemporary ASICS shoes - instead of just composing a new colorway for a model which the brand wants to promote. The only thing off-limits was a completely new sole unit because ASICS is still developing its own soles and that process takes up to three years. (Spoiler alert - eventually they developed a new sole unit together.) Apparently, the success of the collaboration took both ASICS and Kiko Kostadinov slightly by surprise. “We didn’t have any expectations and I’m not even sure how many people at ASICS knew about it. I think most thought it was not a real long-term collaboration,” he stated in an e-mail exchange with i-D.
So let’s have a look at the timeline of this outstanding collaboration from its start in 2017 to the last release in 2020.
GEL-Burz 1
With the whole “normcore” and “dad shoe” trends being on a downwards trajectory right now it is probably hard to imagine that the GEL-Burz 1s had quite a big novelty factor to them when they appeared on sneaker news sites in 2017. As with all his ASICS shoes, they were inspired by the themes and color palettes of the Kiko Kostadinov main collection they were designed for and needed to fit into its narrative. Because the main motives of the runway show were already set, they had to design the shoes in just forty minutes allegedly, sending mock-up prototypes to Japan, and putting the next sample round in the show shortly after.
Kostadinov designed this new silhouette by meshing together elements of other ASICS runners. There were over 200 shoes available to pick from with various components each. According to Kiko, in the end, the selection process was simply about “sensibility and taste”. The GEL-Burz 1 is the result of those choices. It borrowed elements from the GEL-Nimbus 20 as well as the GEL-Venture 6 and added an extra transparent PU layer on the upper. The sole unit is equipped with FlyteFoam as well as GEL cushioning.
GEL-Burz 2
As the name indicates, the GEL-Burz 2 release is a direct sequel. Kostadinov’s twist to the GEL-Nimbus upper is also featured on his second GEL-Burz. Here it is represented as an additional patch of leather and contrast stitching instead of a transparent PU layer as in the previous iteration. According to Kiko, the collection these were designed for was “more about color” and apparently the “terracotta,” “forest,” and “seafoam” colorways were inspired by pottery. The latter is probably my personal favorite out of all the shoes featured here and I am still trying to find a pair but resale prices on these have gone way too astronomical, unfortunately.
GEL-Delva 1
Kostanivov’s second unique silhouette for ASICS was assembled with different components from multiple running models as well. The multi-layered, elastic, and coated Duomax upper was borrowed from the GEL-Fujitrabuco 7 while the heel cage comes from the GEL-Kayano 24. In comparison to the GEL-Burz, the GEL-Delva is quite slim and seems a little more “lightweight” if you will. The silhouette itself looks more like a contemporary running sneaker than a shoe designed with a “fashion sensibility”. The (mostly) vibrant colorways, on the other hand, are where Kiko applied his competence and talent. The excellent “Tai-Chi Yellow” would probably be considered a little out of place on a track and the “Cool Mist” and “Rosewood Brown” combinations could be difficult not to mess up in a serious running scenario I guess. A total of six colorways were released in separate packs of three. This was also the first ASICS x Kiko Kostadinov collection that included complementary apparel pieces.
Kiko Kostadinov x ASICS GEL-Delva 1 “Cool Mist”, “Murasaki”, and “Tai-Chi Yellow”
Source: HB
GEL-Sokat Infinity 1 & 2
After two successful running silhouettes, Kostadinov and ASICS got a little more experimental with the GEL-Sokat Infinity line. The second version is a mid-cut, basketball-inspired shoe featuring a big-webbed mesh upper and an extended tongue. The eye-catching heel cage was taken from the ASICS Dan Gable Ultimate - a performance-shoe designed for wrestling matches. To be honest, I think this is the weakest effort out of the whole ASICS Kiko timeline. The general silhouette does not appeal to me at all - a little to clown shoe-ish maybe - and the warped out upper applications as well as their proportions look strange to me - but unfortunately not in a good way.
I find the GEL-Sokat Infinity 1 to be much more interesting. Usually, I would dislike such artificial seeming, glossy colorways but I think the unusual inspiration behind the model is very refreshing. The sneaker itself is influenced by running and Tug of War (“gerra sokatira” in basque). The heightened ankle protector is a design element specifically developed for the sport and is a reference to the ASICS Tsunahiki 109 which features a raised side to provide ideal support during Tug of War games. The asymmetrical silhouette also features a mesh upper with synthetic overlay panels as well as a full-length, translucent GEL midsole unit borrowed from the GEL-Quantum Infinity. The shoe was released in three colorways and was accompanied by a great campaign shot by Frank Lebon.
GEL-Nepxa
Coming in at peak experimental, the GEL-Nexpa kind of looks like a mixture of boxing boots and those neoprene shoes some surfers wear. Very hard to pull off and not for everybody (not for me either) but definitely an intriguing eye-catcher in a mostly homogenized sneaker market. Kostadinov once said in an interview with GQ that “having bad collections” can be important sometimes. “I don’t want to make a bad collection—but let’s say unexpected or unsuccessful.” Not to say that the GEL-Sokat and GEL-Nexpa experiments were “bad” necessarily but they probably ended up on the sales rack in most stores. Nonetheless, they surely were are an important exercise in the trajectory of Kostadinov’s sneaker design approach. I think it is great, that ASICS allowed him to get a little more out there and take risks like these. Also, I have a feeling, that, in the coming years, the GEL-Nexpa might blossom into a “cult-status” fan favorite for a certain audience of tech-wear enthusiasts with a fashion affinity or vice versa - think the organiclab.zips and Constant Practices of the world.
GEL-Korika
Kiko Kostadinov x ASICS GEL-Korika Campeign. Photography by Jürgen Teller.
Source: HB
After a little excursion into slightly more experimental shoe design, the GEL-Korika is a return to the running aesthetic that inspired the first ASICS x Kiko releases. After Laura and Deanna Fanning were appointed to head the womenswear line for the Kiko Kostadinov label, they also worked on the GEL-Korika with Kiko. Starting with the upper of the GELBURST RS - a high-top basketball silhouette - they trimmed it down to look good as a low-top runner and combined it with a GEL-Nimbus sole unit base and an extra FlyteFoam midsole layer. Laura and Deanna Fanning composed vibrant colorways for the women’s sizes while Kiko opted for more toned down, monochromatic silver and black iterations. In my opinion, the women’s versions outdo the men’s colorways in this case.
The GEL-Korika was promoted by a sensational campaign that was shot (and modeled) by Juergen Teller. Just like Kostadinov was granted creative freedom by ASICS, he granted creative freedom to Teller. They just sent the shoes to the photographer who took them along on vacation and shot them in his characteristic random-seeming and humorous style.
““The idea was just to give him the shoes, and he could do whatever he wanted with them. There was a little brief for it, and we asked if he can be in the photos. But apart from that, we were not at the shoot – we don’t know when he shot them, we don’t know much. We didn’t ask, because it doesn’t really matter.””
Kiko Kostadinov x ASICS GEL-Korika Campaign. Photography by Jürgen Teller.
Source: HB
GEL-Kiril
After proving himself with several re-interpretations and hybrid constructions, ASICS went kind of all in with Kiko Kostadinov and allowed him, as the first outside designer ever, to work on his own unique performance model and sole unit. The GEL-Kiril is the result of an in-house development process that took about 18 months. It features a multilayered upper which combines a tightly knit mesh base and a latticed overlay pattern with shiny patent leather panels. The actual highlights are the elongated AHAR outsoles extending onto the toebox though. They are composed of circular traction templates and flower-shaped nub-patterns. GEL cushioning and FlyteFoam round off the running-inspired silhouette. The high-contrast colorway choices of “Ice Mint” and “Cilantro” demonstrate all the patterns and material choices really well.
Kiko Kostadinov also released a very fascinating and artful short film alongside the announcement for the GEL-Kiril. It was directed by Tommy Malekoff and shot in Bulgaria displaying some of the country’s traditions and customs.
GEL-Aurania
The Gel-Aurania is another (and the last) women’s exclusives that I wish would have come in bigger sizes as well. Some elements of the upper were taken from the SKYSENSOR Slash JJ, while the midsole’s cushioning unit comes from the GEL-QUANTUM Infinity. Big ASICS spiral logos were placed slightly lateral under an asymmetrical lacing system and atop a mesh base and is complemented by multiple patent leather overlays.
Kiko Kostadinov x ASICS GEL-Aurania Campaign.
Source: HB
GESSIRITT II & GEL-Teserakt
After the GEL-Aurania came two further women exclusive silhouettes with the GESSIRITT II & GEL-Teserakt. Both are either way too far “out there” for me - in the case of the GESSIRITT - or simultaneously too bland and too big somehow. The Kiril outsole unit and the remarkable heel paneling of the GEL-Teserakt are its most appealing aspect in my opinion. Other than that, the rather generic GEL-FRANTIC 6 upper in a pearlized metallic leather version honestly was not too exciting.
GEL-Kiril 2
For their final collaborative release co-branded as “Kiko Kostadinov x ASICS”, the designer created a follow-up model to his first unique ASICS silhouette. The GEL-Kiril 2 combines a new FlyteFoam sole unit with a breathable mesh upper and an elasticated lacing system underneath a velcro strap. ASICS tiger stripes stretch around the toebox and a tiny spiral logo adorns the top of the tongue panel. All in all an excellent (personally I would say Top 3) entry and a more than worthy conclusion to one of the most interesting ongoing collaborations in the sneaker space.
Overall the project injected creativity and a highly welcomed newness into a product segment that mainly dwells on re-releasing decade-old silhouettes. Maybe it helped that Kostadinov is not a “sneakerhead” worshipping 80s and 90s basketball shoes but rather approaches sneaker design with his own, homegrown, and unique aesthetic sensibilities. Of course, some of the resulting models were not as lauded as others. But again, that comes with trying to accomplish something new and taking design risks - a proposition that unfortunately seems to be quite foreign today. So no wonder that ASICS wanted to further extend their relationship with the designer even after the co-branded project with his namesake label ran out. Kostadinov and his team will continue working together with ASICS designers and contribute new silhouettes for their SportStyle division. The first model resulting from his new partnership is the UB1-S Gel-Kayano 14, which has an excellent sole unit and overall looks very promising. It will be interesting to see what Kiko Kostadinov’s future contributions to sneaker design will look like.
““From day one, ASICS showed an openness and willingness towards the new ideas and new directions that the Kiko Kostadinov design team presented to them. Their trust in our vision is what has made this partnership such a success. We are deeply honored to be building further on this partnership with this new developmental initiative. It will allow us to integrate deeper within the ASICS brand, beyond relying on yesterday’s models of collaboration – affording us the space to approach our work through a more considered filter, with an eye towards tomorrow.””
ASICS x Kiko Kostadinov GEL-Kiril 2 campaign.
Source: HB
